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'雀巢鄔特：在雲南發現咖啡“新大陸”'

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'雀巢,鄔特,雲南,發現,咖啡,新大陸,'

'寧洱漢子華紅林帶頭種咖啡 15年種成華百萬 比利時人鄔特常年的工作狀態是：駕駛着車牌號爲雲J25151的墨綠色北京吉普，盤旋在雲南普洱地區的山路上。密閉的車內湧動着熱帶山地季風氣候特有的潮熱，到達最近的村落通常需要耗時兩個小時，孤獨、重複的行程令常'

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'2015-08-07 12:12:46'

'2015-08-07 12:14:13'

'36385'

''

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'<center>
	<img alt="雀巢鄔特：在雲南發現咖啡“新大陸”" height="225" src="/uploads/allimg/150807/12141331Q-0.jpg" width="300" /></center>
<p>
	　　寧洱漢子華紅林帶頭種咖啡 15年種成&ldquo;華百萬&rdquo;</p>
<p>
	　　比利時人鄔特常年的工作狀態是：駕駛着車牌號爲&ldquo;雲J25151&rdquo;的墨綠色北京吉普，盤旋在雲南普洱地區的山路上。密閉的車內湧動着熱帶山地季風氣候特有的潮熱，到達最近的村落通常需要耗時兩個小時，孤獨、重複的行程令常人難以忍受，但鄔特樂此不疲。</p>
<p>
	　　&ldquo;我一開始就知道，自己更喜歡農村生活。&rdquo;他邊說邊伸出手臂，與沿途經過的農戶一一打招呼。</p>
<p>
	　　大家都叫他&ldquo;咖啡先生&rdquo;</p>
<p>
	　　35歲的鄔特被普洱人叫做&ldquo;咖啡先生&rdquo;。他的職業是雀巢派駐雲南的咖啡農藝部經理。這一身份頗似1877年路經四川、貴州，徒步來到雲南的第一個基 督教傳教士麥克悌，前者致力於在這個偏僻地區尋找上帝的新子民，而鄔特和他的7人小團隊則維繫着這一傳統茶葉產地裏的小農戶與雀巢&ldquo;咖啡帝國&rdquo;的合作關 系。</p>
<p>
	　　在全球尋找咖啡新大陸是雀巢的慣例：南美洲是傳統的咖啡產地，產量佔全球近一半。僅巴西一國咖啡收成的好壞就會直接影響到雀巢、卡夫、寶潔這樣的大 型咖啡生產商的產品價格。1994年，巴西咖啡遭受霜凍，導致咖啡豆價格在兩週內暴漲3倍，差點拖垮上市不久的星巴克。爲了儘量分散風險，這些巨頭一直都 在依靠鄔特這樣的&ldquo;使者&rdquo;使其&ldquo;版圖&rdquo;中的咖啡基地均勻分佈。</p>
<p>
	　　從1988年開始，雀巢選中普洱(當時還叫思茅)試種咖啡。這個人口當時不到百萬的小城地處北迴歸線附近，土壤條件適合，並且與咖啡之鄉古巴同一緯 度。自古以來，茶是當地的主業之一，咖啡文化爲零。從1992年起，雀巢在此地設立了咖啡農業服務部，先後派出五任外國專家在這裏指導農民種植咖啡(鄔特 是第五任)。到1997年，雀巢的東莞咖啡生產廠能從普洱獲得了所需的全部小粒種咖啡豆(高品質水洗咖啡豆)，這裏已經成爲雀巢全球咖啡&ldquo;版圖&rdquo;中80多 個種植生產基地之一。與跨國公司的慣例相反，雀巢並不想過多依賴當地農場或大型中間商。到2009年時，雀巢在普洱有98%的供應商是咖啡種植戶而非咖啡 中間商，其中80%是土地在50畝以下的小型農戶。雀巢希望這一模式還將隨着鄔特和他的7人團隊的推廣而繼續擴大。</p>
<p>
	　　他認爲普洱是可以買到奶酪的&ldquo;市中心&rdquo;</p>
<p>
	　　作爲農民眼中的&ldquo;咖啡先生&rdquo;，鄔特的慣常裝扮是：眼鏡、襯衫、牛仔褲、登山鞋，下地時戴上一頂有雀巢標誌的小紅帽。由於在非洲長大，他在雲南的烈日 炙烤下顯得如魚得水。&ldquo;在比利時上大學主修熱帶農業時，我不會搭公車，不習慣廣場音樂會，無法和大學裏的人談論政治或藝術。&rdquo;畢業後，他獲得比利時NGO 農民協會的工作機會前往非洲。在&ldquo;沒電，沒路，沒水，沒網絡，每天喫很多香蕉&rdquo;的坦桑尼亞的5年裏，鄔特發現了自己喜歡的工作和生活方式：與當地農民緊密 接觸進行田間勞作指導。</p>
<p>
	　　隨後，鄔特在中國的5年裏實現了這一理想：對他來說，麗江只是一個吵鬧的&ldquo;大超市&rdquo;，昆明是僅供轉機的&ldquo;中間站&rdquo;，普洱是可以買到奶酪的&ldquo;市中 心&rdquo;。鄔特把家安在農場，直到一年前才攜妻女搬至鎮上的公寓裏。&ldquo;農場裏的狗和雞太吵了。&rdquo;他說，&ldquo;最開始有兩隻雞，現在變成了20只它們總在吵架，吵得 我女兒睡不着覺。&rdquo;他的女兒今年兩歲，順理成章地認爲爸爸出產了世界上所有的咖啡。</p>
<p>
	　　&ldquo;她總是指着超市裏陳列的咖啡叫：Coffee!Daddy!(咖啡!爸爸!)&rdquo;</p>
<p>
	　　討論鄔特&ldquo;咖啡家族&rdquo;的血統能否在這個滿頭金髮的小女孩身上延續，爲時尚早。但2005年，鄔特正是子承父業來到普洱。他的父親楊迪邁(Jan De Smet)是雀巢派駐雲南的第四任專家。在爲雀巢在菲律賓和雲南指導咖啡種植工作之前，楊作爲咖啡農藝師在非洲布隆迪待了21年，直到內戰逼迫其搬家。鄔 特在非洲的18年裏，早早就接觸到咖啡農戶及咖啡種植、加工的全過程。這一經歷使得他在接替父親職位時，給總部的人留下了深刻的印象。</p>
<p>
	　　每一個採購季節，他都要瘦一圈</p>
<p>
	　　雀巢在普洱所租用的倉庫區緊挨鄔特及其團隊所在的小紅樓，一間可以裝1200噸到1400噸咖啡。最高峯滿倉時是6000噸，覆蓋近6萬畝土地，佔到整個雲南咖啡的生產量的1/3。在2010年五六月結束的採購季裏，雀巢收購了3000噸左右的咖啡豆。</p>
<p>
	　　夏初，鄔特從辦公室去往倉庫的腳步總是十分匆忙。在這一傳統的咖啡採購旺季，小農戶們用三輪車、摩托車、拖拉機、麪包車將自家生產的10至20包 (一包是70公斤)咖啡豆送到雀巢採購站，超過100包的供貨者則僱傭卡車。倉庫門口排起長隊，由雀巢僱傭的專門搬運工團隊進行卸載和分類。採購站內部人 員的主要工作是取樣和檢測。農民只需要等上半個小時，便會知道自己的咖啡豆是否合格。被接收後的每包咖啡豆則被重新包裝並附上標牌，便於質量回溯這也是雀 巢喜歡和農戶直接做生意的原因之一。若出現質量問題，雀巢的東莞工廠將此號碼報給採購站，就可追查到原始供貨者。</p>
<p>
	　　&ldquo;其實，我一看司機就能認出咖啡的來源地和戶主。&rdquo;鄔特說。他整天都要在倉庫和設在辦公室內的檢測室之間監督搬運、稱重、取樣、反饋、重裝的收購過程。</p>
<p>
	　　&ldquo;我們的人在每一個採購季都會瘦上一圈，上一年我掉了10公斤。</p>
<p>
	　　&ldquo;鄔特對工作極其認真，不會漏掉任何一場&lsquo;杯品&rsquo;。&rdquo;雀巢農藝服務部咖啡採購官員羅珏成說。所謂&ldquo;杯品&rdquo;，即是雀巢對咖啡豆的質量測 試：經過隨機取樣後的咖啡豆樣品，要在精選後被炒出來分批研磨，再煮成咖啡來品嚐。這絕非一般人想象中休閒的喝咖啡，更像是一項嚴格的流水作業：每人從咖 啡杯中取一勺，喝一口，吐掉，轉檯，換一杯再喝&hellip;&hellip;同時將瞬間感覺的各項指標填寫進表格：咖啡香味、果酸(小粒種咖啡的特有指標，越高越好)、甘醇度等 等。</p>
<p>
	　　咖啡口味的重點是清醇。&rdquo;鄔特說，&ldquo;但究竟什麼叫清醇，非得試過上千次才能掌握。&rdquo;收購高峯時，鄔特和他的團隊一天要這麼&ldquo;喝&rdquo;上120-150杯。</p>
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'雀巢,鄔特,雲南,發現,咖啡,新大陸,'

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'雀巢鄔特：在雲南發現咖啡“新大陸”_雲南咖啡豆_精品咖啡豆_中國咖啡網'

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'寧洱漢子華紅林帶頭種咖啡 15年種成華百萬 比利時人鄔特常年的工作狀態是：駕駛着車牌號爲雲J25151的墨綠色北京吉普，盤旋在雲南普洱地區的山路上。密閉的車內湧動着熱帶山地季風氣候特有的潮熱，到達最近的村落通常需要耗時兩個小時，孤獨、重複的行程令常'

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