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'細說臺灣咖啡種植史：臺灣咖啡如何在失落的20年後復興？'

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'細說,臺灣,咖啡,種植史,何在,失落,年後,復興,'

'專業咖啡師交流 請關注咖啡工房(微信公衆號cafe_style ) 咖啡，是全球第二大的國際貿易商品，僅次於石油。在許多國家，咖啡都是非常重要的經濟作物，而在臺灣，您或許曾經聽過古坑咖啡的名號。相信你一定十分好奇，臺灣是從什麼時候開始種植咖啡的呢？而臺灣'

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''

'2017-08-25 10:41:46'

'2017-08-25 10:42:10'

'107664'

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'<img alt="" src="/uploads/allimg/170825/3-1FR510415HU.jpg" style="width: 696px; height: 438px;" /><br />
<span style="color: rgb(62, 62, 62); font-family: 微軟雅黑, 黑體, Arial; font-size: 14px;">專業咖啡師交流 請關注咖啡工房(微信公衆號cafe_style )</span><br />
<br />
<div>
	　　咖啡，是全球第二大的國際貿易商品，僅次於石油。在許多國家，咖啡都是非常重要的經濟作物，而在臺灣，您或許曾經聽過&ldquo;古坑咖啡&rdquo;的名號。相信你一定十分好奇，臺灣是從什麼時候開始種植咖啡的呢？而臺灣所出產的咖啡又有什麼特殊的風味呢？</div>
<div>
	&nbsp;</div>
<div>
	　　這次，請讓山羊咖啡細說臺灣咖啡的種植歷史。</div>
<div>
	&nbsp;</div>
<div>
	　　荷治時期</div>
<div>
	&nbsp;</div>
<div>
	　　在西元16&mdash;&mdash;17世紀的大航海時代，荷蘭人遠渡重洋，來到東南亞擴張殖民地，而咖啡這種植物也被荷蘭商人帶到印尼的巴達維亞，荷蘭商人希望透過在殖民地的大量種植，創造可觀的經濟利潤。根據合理的推斷，很有可能在西元1624&mdash;&mdash;1662年的荷治時期，咖啡樹便已被傳入臺灣，唯此事並未有文獻記載，因此臺灣最早的咖啡樹是否是由荷蘭人傳入，仍屬不確定。</div>
<div>
	&nbsp;</div>
<div>
	　　清領時代的嘗試</div>
<div>
	&nbsp;</div>
<div>
	　　而咖啡在臺灣最早的明確種植紀錄，是由清領時代的英商&ldquo;德記洋行&rdquo;於西元1884年，從馬尼拉所引進的阿拉比卡咖啡品種，種植於現今新北市的海山地區與臺北市的文山區。但在種植三年之後，卻因爲一場火災，被燃燒殆盡，再加上移植而來的咖啡樹無法適應臺灣當地的氣候與環境，因此德記洋行最後放棄了咖啡的種植。</div>
<div>
	&nbsp;</div>
<div>
	　　日據時期的大規模種植</div>
<div>
	&nbsp;</div>
<div>
	　　咖啡在臺灣真正的大規模種植，是在日據時期的1930年代，日本人在恆春、嘉義、士林設立農事機構積極引種培育，咖啡逐漸成爲重要特用經濟作物，地方品牌如臺東豐田村咖啡更外銷日本，也在 1939 年成立東臺灣及木村咖啡株式會社。臺灣引入咖啡期間，大稻埕著名的茶商李春生，在1935年以烘培咖啡運往英國倫敦販賣，獲得英國官方的讚譽，此事也讓日本大正天皇大爲讚賞。當時粗估種植的面積，有數百公頃。</div>
<div>
	&nbsp;</div>
<div>
	　　光復後的種植與國際貿易</div>
<div>
	&nbsp;</div>
<div>
	　　然而隨著太平洋戰爭的爆發，爲了因應戰爭糧食需求，大部分的咖啡農田都轉爲種植稻米等糧食作物，臺灣的咖啡產業逐漸沒落。直到光復之後，才恢復在屏東與臺東種植，並逐步於南投、雲林、嘉義、花蓮、臺南進行栽培。1950年代的咖啡種植世界版圖，以巴西與哥倫比亞產量最大，東南亞則以印尼最盛，臺灣所種植的咖啡在亞洲也佔有一席之地，品質可與爪哇等地並駕齊驅，產地方面至少有1000公頃的種植面積，以外銷他國居多。</div>
<div>
	&nbsp;</div>
<div>
	　　但是好景不常，隨著巴西、哥倫比亞等中南美洲國家，以大規模與機械化的方式種植咖啡，咖啡的售價被大量壓低，臺灣則因爲產量不足，價格沒有競爭力，再加上政府並未重視，臺灣的咖啡產業再次沒落。</div>
<div>
	&nbsp;</div>
<div>
	　　在1982 年臺灣的農業年報中，已經沒有了咖啡的種植資料，此後，臺灣的咖啡產業進入失落的二十年，在這段時間，隨著擁有種植咖啡經驗的農民逐漸凋零，咖啡種植的技術慢慢失傳，從日治時期開始悠久的咖啡種植歷史，得重新歸零。</div>
<div>
	&nbsp;</div>
<div>
	　　臺灣咖啡的再次復興</div>
<div>
	&nbsp;</div>
<div>
	　　奇妙的是，臺灣咖啡的再次復興，原因竟然是921大地震。</div>
<div>
	&nbsp;</div>
<div>
	　　在1999年的921大地震，臺灣中部災區遭受大規模土石流破壞，極需水土保持，經過研究後發現，大量的檳榔樹種植是土石流的禍首，於是檳榔樹被大規模的砍伐。然而，爲了兼顧農民的生計，政府與民間部分人士，鼓勵災區的農民改爲種植水土保持能力較檳榔樹強，且同時也有經濟價值的咖啡樹。因此，目前臺灣許多的咖啡莊園，多爲檳榔樹與咖啡樹混植的狀態。</div>
<div>
	&nbsp;</div>
<div>
	　　目前，全臺種植咖啡的面積估計爲1500公頃左右，較爲著名的產區包括雲林古坑與臺中東勢。在2003年，古坑咖啡被大量的包裝行銷。當時臺灣的民衆都十分驚訝，因爲很少人知道，臺灣也能種植咖啡。臺灣土生土長的咖啡在當時造成了一股熱潮，更被製作爲即溶包裝大量販售。</div>
<div>
	&nbsp;</div>
<div>
	　　在風味方面，包括雲林古坑、臺中東勢地區的咖啡，在經過杯測之後，所具有的香氣滋味中，最常出現的爲花香味、茶香味且酸度中等，此種特色與中美洲、南美洲的高山咖啡相近，推測除了品種相近之外，古坑、東勢等地皆屬較高海拔，因此分類爲 &ldquo;山地型&rdquo; 咖啡。</div>
<div>
	&nbsp;</div>
<div>
	　　目前臺灣的咖啡主要仍爲內銷，原因之一是產量不足，光國內之市場就已供不應求，另外也由於臺灣淡出咖啡國際市場過久，儘管風味迷人，仍需要一段時間才能再次建立起名聲。值得一提的是，有精品咖啡教母之稱的娥娜&#8231;努森（Erna Knutsen），曾來臺品嚐&ldquo;大山水晶咖啡莊園&rdquo;所種植、烘焙的水晶礦咖啡豆，並對其讚不絕口。</div>
<div>
	&nbsp;</div>
<div>
	　　臺灣咖啡的種植有如此長久的歷史，這恐怕是很多人想像不到的，從大航海時代開始，咖啡便透過荷蘭人，與福爾摩沙首次有了連結，接著在日據時代大量的種植，開啓了臺灣咖啡外銷國際的大門。光復之後，臺灣憑藉著優質的風味，在國際市場曾佔有一席之地，然而卻終究抵擋不過中南美洲的削價競爭，最後只能黯然地淡出市場。</div>
<div>
	&nbsp;</div>
<div>
	　　在失落的20年之後，臺灣的咖啡產業再次復興，憑著優良的品質，再次出現於世人面前。儘管名聲的建立需要很長的一段時間，但我們相信，只有肯用心，臺灣出品的咖啡豆，終究會有再次站上國際舞臺的一天。</div>
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